I woke up at the crack of noon (read: early) because there was no way in hell I was missing a free trip to a fucking SPA. The official Airwaves ‘industry’ (read: mostly dudes) party was happening at the Blue Lagoon, the famous Icelandic hot spring. So I rolled out of bed, booked it down to the hotel shuttle, scrambled through Reykjavik to grab my bus ticket and… I wasn’t on the list. Figures; but Iceland promised me a party at a spa damnit! How could they deny me this, the birthright of all Icelanders? I frantically went from desk to desk, asking, pleading, but no luck Finally, the ticket girl took pity on me, told me
she didn’t want me to miss out on the fun, and slipped me a ticket (this, actually, happened a lot. I’m pretty sure the only reason I made it on any bus the entire time I was there was because people were so damn nice). Everyone hopped on the bus, and I drifted off to sleep as we rolled out over the beautiful, moss-blanketed Icelandic countryside.
I have to say, getting out of the bus put a damper on my enthusiasm for an outdoor bath. On top of the viking cold, everything was shrouded in a sort of permamist from the on-again, off-again rain characteristic of Iceland. As soon as I slipped into that water, I didn’t give one. single. damn. By the time I had silica mud smeared on my face and a drink from the swim up bar in my hand (now that’s a spa!) I was feeling like a million bucks. The more-or-less official DJ of the Blue Lagoon, Margeir was bumping techno, and a dude-heavy group was having a hell of a time out on the dance fl…pool?. I stayed until around 3 (if I had stayed a little longer, I probably would have run into Jaymie, who took all the amazing pictures a couple hours after I left) before heading back to Reykjavik for some lunch. Turning down the bus-driver’s offer to personally drive me back to my hotel (I was the only passenger not staying downtown) I directed myself to the famous Bæjarins beztu pylsur, for what translates to “the best hotdog in town.” I ordered two with the works (onions, fried onions, ketchup, mustard, mayo, relish, and some sauce called remolaði) and quickly stuffed them both into my food hole. Satiated, I lumbered back to the hotel to grab a quick nap. No way was I going to squander my last night in Iceland on something useless like sleep.
I knew I had to make my first show of the night Mount Kimbie, an experimental electronic duo from the UK that I have a music nerd crush on thanks to “Maybes”, playing over at the NASA venue (free beer fridge, woo!). As I was hanging out waiting for them to start, I had the luck to chat with James Blake, upstairs in the lounge. He’s a cool dude, and not at all as dark and twisted as his music makes him seem. It was a real treat, and an example of one my favorite things about Airwaves; the artists are all over the city. You practically can’t go anywhere (including the bathroom) without running into someone in a band. Music nerd heaven. We got to discuss the finer points of house music, I
celandic women (they’re fit), and the worlds newly discovered sub-bass fetish. Our conversation ended as Mount Kimbie took the stage, and we both filtered downstairs to the main hall for the show. Turn on a couple smoke machines for atmosphere and wham! You’ve got the perfect setting for Kimbie’s spooky electronica. They put on a fantastic set, and thankfully, since they were early in the night, could be as creepy and dark as they wanted without ruining anyone’s redbull buzz. Once they wrapped up, it was a quick run over to Sódóma to see check out Crocodiles, a San Diego based band who could be described as a noisier incarnation of the Beach Boys (No way am I going to make these comparisons, I’m not a fucking press sheet). Fuzzed out guitars, distorted vocals and wavy synths are their trademarks, lending to a sound that could only be described as partly submerged… like a… crocodile?
Then it was quickly back to NASA for the Apparat Organ Quartet, an Icelandic favorite (apparently?). I originally thought they had something to do with Berlin based techno pioneer Apparat, who perhaps had found some organs (4 to be precise) to play with. Not the case; the Apparat Organ Quartet is Icelandic through-and-through and entirely unrelated. They stick to a brand of synthpop, with distorted
vocals slapped on top of hyper-crisp tones. They were a lot of fun, got the crowd involved doing mysterious hand movements that apparently all the fans knew, and put on an all around good show. I wound up staying for Hercules and Love Affair, who did their standard disco revival thing. On the tip from a local girl named Björk (No, not that Björk) I decided to stick around for Retro Stefson, who apparently had some surprises up their sleeves. They’re damn eclectic; hopping between electro to funk. (They even managed to sneak in a quick cover of Pon di Floor, which got everyone going pretty apeshit). Next up was the Amplifetes, a Swedish band fronted by a glittery Jesus impersonator (the drummer was also a half-normal, half glitter hybrid). They were a lot of fun (memory a little hazy at this point; thanks Heineken for the free beer) and performed some perfectly executed glam pop. Did I mention how much glitter there was?
Then it was back out into the streets again. I ended up going back to Venue with a group of locals, who vouched for the late night crowd there. At around 4 AM, they opened up the doors connecting the adjacent bar Sodoma for a giant dance party. James Blake showed up to play a surprise DJ set (this is starting to sound like a dream now that I’m typing it up ) and I danced my freaking ass off until I was a sweaty, exhausted mess. I got in a taxi, slurred the name of my hotel (probably my best pronunciation yet) one last time, and duly spent the ride pledging that I would do everything I could to make it back to Airwaves next year.
Bæjarins beztu pylsu